Cooking Kumara

Originating in South America and introduced first into Polynesia and then New Zealand, kumara (sweet potatoes) are a staple food in the traditional Maori diet. The kumara were farmed by Maori tribes who used tamed seagulls to control caterpillars and then stored over winter in pits, the remnants of which can still be seen around old tribal sites.


There are now three main varieties of kumara grown commercially in New Zealand - all of them introduced after European settlement and much bigger than the ones once eaten by Maori. The vegetable is still very popular here with cafes and restaurants offering kumara fries, kumara rosti, mashed kumara... Despite his New Zealand passport, James hates kumara. So whilst he's away in Wellington, I've stocked up on red, gold and orange kumara in order to make a delicious kumara gratin. Mmm...